十文字紋陣幕屏風じゅうもんじもんじんまくびょうぶ

  • 江戸時代
  • 17c
  • 二曲屏風一隻、紫平絹織
  • H-166.8 W-274.4

江戸時代 17世紀
紫平絹織
縦:166.8cm 横:274.4cm

十文字紋を絞り染めした陣幕の断片を二曲屏風に仕立てたもの。紫地平絹に大きな十文字紋二つを白揚げで表している。裂幅34センチメートルほどの平絹五幅を横についでいる。十文字紋は横が108センチメートル,縦が114センチメートルの大きさで,縫い絞りの技法による。
陣幕の地色は,古来紺色が主流であったが,『文化武鑑』によれば江戸時代には紺以上に紫色が好まれていた。これは紫平絹に島津氏の家紋として知られる十文字紋を白く染め抜いた陣幕であり,その断片を二曲屏風に仕立てている。各幅は織耳を裁ち落としているが,十文字紋が自然なつながりを見せることから,当初の仕立て幅に近いものと思われる。江戸時代の陣幕には縫い締めの針目がなければ糊置の技法で紋を表したかと見紛うほど絞足がわからないものがある。この陣幕も絞りの針目が粗い割には絞足が目立たず,桃山時代の絞りとはやや趣を異にする。図版88の桐紋陣幕に比べると,各幅の幅も狭く,江戸時代に入っての制作を思わせる。 (河上)

Catalogue Entry

Edo period, 17th century
2-panel screen, shibori resist dye on silk
Height, 166.8cm; width, 274.4cm

A fragment of a curtain, shibori-dyed with a cross-shaped family crest, has been mounted as a 2-panel screen. The ground is a purple plain silk on which 2 large crosses have been left in resist white. The fabric panels are each approximately 34cm wide, and 5 panels have been stacked vertically to form the overall height of the curtain. The cross-shaped family crests are 114cm tall and 108cm wide and were created in a shibori-resist dye technique.

Traditionally, navy blue was the preferred color for these curtains, but according to the Bunka Bukan, purple was favored over navy blue during the Edo period. Originally, the curtain would have shown the cross-shaped family crest of the Shimazu family left white against a purple plain-weave silk ground, and this fragment of the curtain has been mounted as a 2-panel screen. The selvages have been cut off of each width of fabric, but since the cross-shaped crests are naturally formed without breaks, it would seem that the present width of the fabric is close to its original form. The curtains of the Edo period show such tiny amounts of bleeding around the needle holes that it almost appears that they were not created with a sewn shibori technique, but rather with a paste-resist method. But this curtain shows both slightly rough needle holes and a lack of bleeding around these holes which would indicate that it is somewhat closer in date to Momoyama shibori techniques. The width of each fabric panel is narrower than those in cat. no. 88, and this size difference indicates that this screen was created after the beginning of the Edo period. KS